A new obsession: textiles

When I arrived in Kenya, I knew that tailoring was common, and I had the plan to get an outfit made for me.  I had no idea that within days I would become totally obsessed with textiles and start a collection that will definitely make packing to return home difficult. 

The first thing I found were khangas, or lesos (machekas in South Africa).  These are cheap cotton pieces of fabric that are used for literally everything.  You can carry a baby, carry your groceries, wear it as a wrap, have a picnic on it, get clothing made… anything.  There is a growing market of people making craft and high fashion items like shoes and purses covered in patterned khangas, which are really cool.  They are usually printed in two bright, contrasting colors and have a saying on them in Kiswahili.   When you buy them, you get two pieces that are a few yards long each, for about three dollars. 

from left: Mumias town, Lodwar, Lodwar, Johannesburg, Mombasa

During my first field trip to Kakamega, I had one goal, and that was to buy a khanga to remember my time there.  While you don’t see them as much in Nairobi, every woman in Mumias town was wearing or carrying a khanga of some sort.  I bought my first one, a blue and orange piece that said “UKIPATA SHUKURA HATA MIMI” which means something like “when you receive, also give me thanks.”  I wrote the place and date I purchased it on the edge and decided I would have to collect one every time I traveled.

number one

By now I have collected quite a few and gotten one in Kakamega, Turkana, Nairobi, and Johannesburg.  Sonia also brought me one from Mombasa, and I have been collecting some to give as gifts.

DRC skirt

My next obsession came in the form of kitenge.  Vitenge are printed with a batik technique and come in a ton of colors and patterns, like khangas.  Unlike khangas, the pattern doesn’t end or have a border, but is repeated on the bolt.  It is used to make outfits and purses and all kinds of good stuff.  Sonia took me to a store called Amani ya Juu in Riverside and I got a skirt made of a kitenge from DRC. 

kitenge from Joburg

a "few" examples

In South Africa, I discovered shweshwe.  Shweshwe is a thick, printed cotton fabric.  It was originally dyed with indigo, and much of the fabric available is still primarily blue and brown.  Each piece is made up of a single color, with a dark shade, a lighter one, and white, forming an often circular-based pattern.  The acid discharge roller printing technique used to create the patterns leave the fabrics with a distinctive smell and stiffness.  The fabric is used for many things, but is frequently made into short-sleeved, full skirted dresses.  I got a few examples, in traditional blue, brown, and one in special green.  UPDATE: I WENT BACK AND GOT MORE

easily my favorite

details

the famous Da Gama seal

African waxprints are very common is West Africa, but as Joburg is a hub, everything is available there.  I stocked up on a couple while I had the chance.

wax print

My plan when I return to Kenya is to get a few yards of kitenge and have an outfit made.  Any comments or suggestions?  Let me know!