Birthday

A Very Kenyan Birthday

Celebrating your birthday when you are away from home can be a crapshoot.  Sometimes the day will come and go without anyone being the wiser, and sometimes you will be astounded by how people come out of the woodwork to celebrate with you.   I have only had a few birthdays away from home, and each has been unique.  There was the depressing flight from Minnesota to Boston to start my second semester of grad school, waking up to firecrackers outside of my bedroom window in Guatemala (apparently a Guatemalan tradition? Perhaps hazing?), last year’s electricity and internet-free hotel birthday in western Kenya, and this year’s SURPRISE FIESTA BLOWOUT.

I took the day off work thinking I would just relax on the beach, celebrate in my own way, and no one would be the wiser.  Little did I know that there were other forces at work.  Upon waking up I called my friends who I invited to the beach and asked where I should meet to catch the boat.  I was informed they were coming to pick me up.  J & M arrived with balloons and gifts gathered from a variety of sources.  A khanga from someone’s mom, flowers from someone’s brother, cards from aunties and uncles.  I was so surprised that everyone knew it was my birthday and took the time to send me gifts.  I felt very loved (#blessed). 

After several hours spent crisping in the sun, reading in the shade, and eating pizza, I felt very satisfied with my 28^th birthday.  I mean, I spent it on a beach bed and someone brought me iced coffee and ginger beer at regular intervals.  I also got to eat pizza, which includes cheese, and I haven’t eaten cheese in weeks.  WEEKS.   

Unbeknownst to me the day was not over.  I knew there was going to be a “party” at the office at night, but I only expected soda and chats.  I was surprised to find a fully decorated office, tons of food, lots of people, and even presents!  After everyone sang happy birthday I was introduced to a new custom for me--cutting the cake into small pieces and feeding it to each guest by hand.  This was strange for me but also pretty funny.  I quickly learned that the guests then proceed to smear cake on the birthday girl’s face before leaving.  I walked home with a full belly, some lovely gifts, a birthday hat on my head, cake on my face, and a full heart.

To top it all off, when I got home I had running water, after 5 weeks without! A birthday miracle!

New Year 2016

I had the great pleasure of having a visitor to celebrate the New Year with last week!  We had a lot of fun playing at the beach, swimming, and floating around on dhows in small paradise.  Happy New Year to everyone!

Things I Never Expected Myself to Do

I cannot speak for my mom, but I am almost certain that if you asked her, she would express some level of surprise that the painfully shy daughter who used to read in a closet has to date stepped off of planes completely alone in four new countries and not had a complete meltdown.  While I have had my fair share of fit-throwing, fear, complaining, and panic attacks, somehow none of these moves has ever felt like and earth-shattering reach for me.  The book lover in me has always wanted adventure, but at my own pace.  I realized that once I took the dive, it never really felt like a dive.  Everyday life in another country just becomes everyday life again, and astoundingly fast.   

The things that changed and the new things I have done have taken me by surprise, however, and they may not seem like the conventional response to living abroad, but it is my way.   I found myself talking to myself a lot lately, narrating an interview in my head, and decided to put my thoughts on digital paper in the form of a list: Things I Never Expected Myself to Do

Be assertive:  At least in this part of Kenya, being passive will not get you anywhere.  I cannot sort of suggest things that I need by saying “I’d be interested in...”.  It is important to say exactly what I need, whether it is in the office, while shopping, finding an apartment, etc, even if it makes me cringingly uncomfortable. 

Be rude--on purpose:  Sometimes you have to take it even further when you are traveling alone in an unfamiliar place.  In Guatemala I pushed my way onto busses and yelled at guys who were acting unbecoming of a young man.  I didn’t want to and it made me feel ashamed at first, but safety is foremost.  

Casually step over animal carcasses:  This one should surprise my mother the most.

Build lasting relationships:  I used to think it wasn’t possible to make friendships in as short as 6 months or a year that would last.  I especially didn’t think I would be able to make friendships with local people who are used to seeing white people roll through their town on volunteer trips over and over again (relevant in Guatemala).  However, I still communicate with people from Guatemala and have plenty of friends in Kenya. 

Worry less about friendships:  I can spend days alone without FOMO.  I am happy to chill with a book on a Friday night.

Say “yes”:  I used to be horrified at the prospect of attending some party or event when I didn’t know what to expect.  I’ve given myself the goal of saying yes to invitations now.  Sure, I have showed up to a few weddings dressed more like a sister wife than the rest of the glam queens in attendance, but I still had fun. 

Sit behind a desk for 8 hours: Not exactly what is expected of traveling.  Turns out I kind of like it.

Move to a place where I cannot speak the language: I spent a lot of time being appalled at volunteers who cropped up in Guatemala with no Spanish skills to speak of.  How could they expect translators to appear and people to communicate with them?  And yet here I am in Kenya, armed with “jambo” and “asante” and little more.

Allow myself totally unnecessary luxuries: Like, totally unnecessary.  I came to the realization last year that I don’t have to totally change my standard of living to be “authentic” or moral in the development field.  A few pounds of my luggage this time around went to supplies for doing my own acrylic nails and nail art, something that is weird even at home.  I like it, and it gives me something to do.  I’m going to continue. 

Eat anything put in front of me, and finish it:  With a smile.

Thoroughly enjoy “tourist crap”: For a time I thought I was too good for this.  But now?  Breakfast at a hippo pool? Yes.  Camp on a volcano? Sign me up.  Sunset cruise? I’m about it. 

Stay connected to technology:  Traveling doesn’t have to mean disconnecting, especially these days!  You are not always a “better person” for unplugging, especially when it means staying in touch with family and friends.  I invested in a wireless modem, and many people would probably describe it as my most treasured object.  My instagram is popping and I still check facebook and gmail daily.  I have a computer, tablet and two phones and I refuse to feel bad or inauthentic because of it.  When bats and cockroaches scurry around at night, I will always have my podcasts on very loudly to ensure that is all I hear.

A quick trip to Rwanda

Cows and computers.  The money seems to signal that I belong in this country.

Last week I made a trip to the shores of Lake Kivu in Rwanda for a job interview.  I won’t mention the name of the organization here as I don’t think either of us wants their google traffic leading to my blog, but it is a rapidly expanding organization that helps give smallholder farmers access to inputs, training, and markets to increase their profitability.  It has been a long and drawn out interview process every step of the way, and this trip was no different. 

It is emotionally draining and sort of diminishing to go through all of these steps, but each time I get the email saying I have advanced to the next round, I am reenergized once again.  I really hope I get the job, but I am not feeling hopeful yet, as the in-country assignment and interview were very tough.  I feel strongly about the capacity of the organization to grow and to continue to support farmers.

Rwandese artists are famous for wonderful baskets

Rwanda itself looks like a beautiful country, and Kigali is incredibly clean and orderly.  The climate suits me a little better than Lamu, with chilly mountain nights and sunny afternoons.  I love the seasonal rains and brilliantly green (right now) hillsides covered in terraced farms.  There are the usual local crafts, and I managed to squeeze in some basket and art shopping in Kigali. 

Lake Kivu

House for the week

View from the porch of said house

Kigali

I am now back in Kenya, exhausted and jumping back into work.  I am trying to stay as busy as possible for the next three weeks while I wait for my response, so any distractions you guys can throw my way are appreciated!

Lamu Cultural Festival

Last week, Lamu celebrated the yearly cultural festival, a major event for locals and tourists.  There was tons to do and see, including dhow races, donkey races, football tournaments, traditional crafts, dances, henna, and a wedding showcase.  Rather than describe all of this I will show it to you.  Enjoy!

LYA staff and family!