New Digs in Lamu

Although I was (an still am) really afraid to move somewhere where I would only be volunteering, I have been lucky to find a way to live relatively cheaply in Lamu.  Land and rental prices are rapidly increasing on the island as people are rushing to grab land in response to the expected influx of emigrants when the new port is completed, but for now prices are low compared to Nairobi or Minneapolis.  I was able to get a great apartment for about 20,000 KSH, or 200 USD a month due to the strength of the dollar right now.  I am fairly well set up with a huge bedroom, huge bathroom, outdoor kitchen, and three balconies, two of which are for my personal use and one that is for all residents to use for laundry.  The other people who live here are mostly clock-punching government employees who return late at night and leave early in the morning, so I rarely see anyone else.  It is quiet, the view is wonderful, and being on the top floor means I get a really nice cool breeze all night, which is getting more important as the temperature climbs. 

Enjoy some pictures of my abode below:

Safety in Lamu

As promised, I am going to write a quick blog post about the safety situation in Lamu, hopefully to assuage any fears anyone has.  I am aware of the risks and always use a lot of precautions when I am traveling, but I want to point out ways that media coverage might be influencing how you see the place where I am living.

In 2014 there were terrorist attacks in Hindi and Mpeketoni towns.  Al-Shabbab took responsibility for the attacks.  These towns are in Lamu county, and I am in Lamu county.  However, these towns are in mainland Kenya, while I am on a relatively isolated island. 

On the map you can see where I live, at the red marker over Lamu.  Hindi is near the top of the map, Mpeketoni over in the bottom left corner.  Yes, in the huge scheme of things, these places are not too far away from me.  In terms of traveling in Kenya, these places are pretty far away.  Lamu island is huge, and the only way to get to it is via boat.  People who arrive by plane or boat must go to one of a few jetties in Lamu when they arrive.

There are other ways that Lamu differs from the mainland towns that suffer from the threat of terrorism and organized violence.  Lamu has a great diversity of cultures and religions, but Islam is the most visible religion, and many customs and mores revolve around that.  Being recognized as an important center of Islam in Kenya, Lamu island is not a target for radicals.  Most Muslims are not radical!  People live very peaceful lives here, and there is great respect among different groups.  There is also a sort of small town security system here.  People take notice of outsiders and anything that seems amiss.  People really look out for watch other here in “Small Paradise”.  The fact that it is essentially a dry island makes a difference, too.  Ever notice how alcohol raises tempers and violence?

It is not perfect, no place is, and I am very vigilant at all times.  Although I have been assured it is safe, I never go out alone at night, avoid public gatherings, and just try to blend into the crowd as much as a mzungu can.  I feel happy, secure, and very glad that I decided to take a leap and come to Lamu Tamu.